Running of the bulls (Tope de Toros)

The weekend before the Hipica (see earlier post of 11/4/2013), Granada hosts its very own running of the bulls, or "Tope de Toros."  It is much smaller in scale than Spain's, but it is dangerous and chaotic nonetheless.  Around 12 or so bulls are released into the street, but they are contained and corralled as much as possible by cowboys riding along side of them.  However, one or two inevitably "escape" and run wild through the town (as we witnessed).  People line up along the street to watch them, or meet them in various parts of the city to run with them.  The bulls run down one of the main roads in Granada, through the central park, ending up at Lake Cocibolco. 

Based on my distaste for large crowds, stories we'd heard of a large increase of pickpockets/criminals during this time, as well as stories of bystanders being gored or run into, we decided to reserve seats up on a balcony overlooking the central park and partake in the festivities from above.  It was such a great decision to have a reserved rooftop and table with food and drink, because we waited HOURS from the time it was supposed to start until the time when the bulls actually passed by. It also rained all day long... However, with the food & drink, a pool table, coloring books & crayons, and lots of people-watching, the waiting was not so bad.  When the bulls finally showed up, it was exciting for the second they were in front of us, but also a bit anti-climactic and disappointing.  But, the experience overall was interesting and something new for us--we enjoyed it.

A hustler in the making...

Coloring, waiting for the bulls, while enjoying our view of the Cathedral.

Flor de Cana is Nicaraguan rum. This is a mobile rum station, rolling
around selling shots, as well as a variety of mixers to go with your rum.

The crowds starting to arrive to watch the bulls pass by.

The first group of bulls go by.  We saw a wild one
running free, chased by several cowboys on horses a bit earlier than this.

Running into a roadblock to control where they go.

A sorry straggler.

The crowds chasing the bulls.

Our very own, very loud band hired by the restaurant during the event.

A cloudy, wispy view of Mombacho Volcano from the back balcony.

Farm life

We've had the pleasure of visiting or staying overnight on a variety of fincas during our stay here.  I don't think technically "finca" means farm, but all of the fincas we've been on have had a variety of farm animals and crops (both large and small).  It is usually a much cooler existence (in comparison with the heat of the "plaster jungle" of Granada) and a more scenic and green existence as well.  We know several people who truly live off of their land by eating and drinking what they produce--various fruit and vegetables, eggs, milk, cheese, beef, chicken, pork, lamb, beans, etc... And it tastes different than it does in the States--it is not covered in pesticides (at least in most cases), and the animals are not pumped full of hormones and antibiotics.  An adjustment in taste buds at first (in a good way), but very tasty once you adapt and recognize the reasons why its different.  And of course the fincas have horses...gotta have a way to move around all of the land and to enjoy the scenery.  Below are some photos from our various finca visits/stays.

Raul trying tame the pelibuey (something between a goat and lamb) that
kept charging him.

Isabel and the very large pig

Playing with a friend.

No, she has not stopped sucking her finger...

Swingin' in his mud boots.

We saw two foals, one only a week old.

Milkin' a cow

 

 

 



Esteli and Miraflor

Months ago we took a trip up north to visit the highland areas of Esteli, Matagalpa and Jinotega.  Its an absolutely gorgeous area of the country with mountains, cool temperatures, and a different vibe than Granada.  I absolutely fell in love and would like to move up there (to either Esteli or Matagalpa).  If we decide to stay in Nicaragua, its definitely a possibility.  In addition to the beauty and the weather, the areas are not tourist hubs so it feels more "Nicaraguan" to me.  The areas are also known for growing tobacco (think cigars) and coffee, so have traditionally been wealthier than some of the other parts of the country. 

We rented a car and drove first to Esteli where we spent one night.  The drive there was a bit treacherous as it is up windy, mountain roads, it was raining, and we were behind an insane semi, that was passing vehicles in a very unsafe and illegal manner. We actually saw him try to pass, crash into a pickup truck, and then proceed to drive away.  We saw everyone get safely out of the pick-up thankfully, and then amazingly enough, saw the police pull the semi over, over an hour away in the city of Esteli. The whole thing definitely rattled us, but gave us some sense of security that the police actually got the guy.

It rained the whole first afternoon and evening we were in Esteli, so we didn't get to do much, but we did get some sun the next morning to walk around the town a bit.  Esteli apparently has one of the best universities in Nicaragua, so there are a lot of college students, cafes, and nightlife (not that we could confirm the nightlife). 

Ice cream to the rescue on a rainy day.



Many of the central parks we've seen on our travels have a monument to mothers. 
Its very interesting to see such reverence to mothers.

The cathedral.

Gigantic papaya.

Painted pigs and hens for sale.

Isabel driving a Ferrari through the central plaza.

 

After walking through Esteli in the morning, we headed over to Miraflor nature reserve to spend a night on a finca (farm).  The road inside the reserve is all dirt, and we had been told it is best to have a 4x4, especially during the rains.  Well 4x4 vehicles are about quadruple the price of a regular sedan and the rains had just started (and we figured it wouldn't be so bad), so we opted to go without the 4x4.  Not a good decision.  Despite having to inch around an overturned sand truck, we made it to our destination in one piece, but had to drive very slowly and undoubtedly scratched up the underside of the car pretty badly.  It was well worth it however as the views were phenomenal and our time on the finca was lovely.  We were the only guests and were in the middle of nature, with not much more than the rustic cabin, the farm animals, and our flashlights.  We took a hike in the afternoon and a long horseback ride to a waterfall the next morning.  It was gorgeous and so peaceful.  The only people we saw were on horseback or walking, and it was few and far in between that we actually saw anyone.  It was also really cold in the night and morning(which we loved!), but with no hot water, trying to shower Isabel was not a fun experience.  Her screams competed with the sounds of the forest creatures for sure.  All in all, I would definitely go back and would like to stay longer.  Next time however, we have to have the 4x4.

Raul checking out the overturned dump truck to see if they need
help and to see if we could make it around.

Our next roadblock was this large herd of cows.  This is not uncommon however,
and can even be encountered in Granada occasionally.

View of Miraflor from the top of the road.

Bundled up, mud boots on, and ready for our hike.

Our cabin, complete with horse grazing in the front yard.

At the waterfall that we arrived at by horseback.

Our horses.  Isabel moved between the three of us.

La Hipica

Since the last post was on horses, I thought I'd continue with the theme and write the long-overdue post on the "Hipica" parade here in Granada.  It happened back in early/mid-August, and was a whole day event where people from all over Nicaragua come to watch the "dancing horses" of Granada parade through the streets and where folks party until all hours of the morning.  Apparently the origins of the Hipica are religious and it is another way to honor the Immaculate Conception of Mary (we did not observe anything religious throughout the day).  Various towns throughout the country have their own hipica celebrations, but apparently Granada's is the best and most well known.

Streets throughout town are blocked off and big grandstands are set up so that people can watch the parade of horses go by. There are also "sponsored" grandstands that you must pay to get into, but you get some ridiculous amount of alcohol for your fee.  Its also possible to just stand on the street and watch them, which is what we did.  The horses are all groomed and many of the riders are dressed up as well.  The horses have a special gait/trot that they do and it appears that they are dancing (video below).  People start drinking very early (including those riding the horses) and continue celebrating the whole day. 

The parade started out by the baseball stadium on the edge of town and we went out there to see some of the horses being prepped (without all of the crowds) and also to people watch the folks gathering and drinking ahead of the parade. The people were friendly, and one guy even let Isabel sit on one of the horses.

Haulin' the horses in to get them ready.  Very few horse trailers here, they
just put them in the back of large trucks.
 

Another truck, and also the women carrying their food stands.

A cowboy drinking his beer, hanging out in the shade.

He just finished painting the hooves of this horse--a nice
pedicure before the parade.

Back in town, once the parade started, it was sensory overload.  Very loud music, lots of heat, people everywhere, food and drink everywhere....we found a corner on one of the parade blocks and tried to stay safe, away from drunken men on horses. We were there for maybe an hour, or a bit longer.  I have no idea how long the parade went on for--I believe 4 or 5 hours.  People on the horses would stop to talk to people in the crowd, to get a drink, or to rest. And there were hundreds of horses.  It was certainly an interesting experience, especially for Isabel given her love of horses, but a little too loud and drunk for my aging tastes.  Long after the parade ended, we were still able to sit out on our porch and watch the various horses and riders return from their afternoon/evening of revelry.

Children start riding horses quite young here.

An even younger child riding...

Isabel the Horse Whisperer

I think I've mentioned in previous posts that Isabel has become increasingly obsessed with horses since we've arrived in Nicaragua.  Its morphed from just wanting to ride in the horse and carriages everyday to wanting to ride a actual horse everyday (and of course wanting us to buy her a horse and keep it in the house).   Despite our fears and her young age, we've increasingly let her ride more and more when we have the chance because she just loves it so much.  I think also seeing so many Nicaraguan children riding large horses alone, both with saddle and bareback, and having drunk the "Nicaraguan tranquilo kool-aide" we have relaxed our safety standards and eased our fears.

So, in honor of Isabel's love of horses, I thought I'd dedicate a post to her and the various horse experiences she's had so far.

One of the first rides at the lookout over Laguna de Apoyo.

The same day, after insisting that she ride alone.  They do 5 min rides through the woods.

On a trip to Miraflor Nature Reserve.  We actually rode a couple of hours to a waterfall. 
Much to her dismay, she had to be on one of our horses the whole time (rather than alone). 

Her favorite horse at the finca and on the ride to the waterfall.  It happened to be the one I was
riding so I got the pleasure of her sitting with me most of the trip (not comfortable
if you were wondering).

We went to check out horses before a big horse parade here (future post)
and the guy let her get on for a while.  So friendly here...

One of the horses getting ready for the parade.  His/her mane is braided
so Isabel wanted a picture.

Spent the weekend at a finca in Diriombo and Isabel got her first "lesson".
She now insists she knows how to ride and can go alone.

Don't know if you can see very well, but there were two new foals
 on the finca. Such a cool experience for Isabel.  One was only 8 days old.

Isabel leading the way with her friend Nadia in the saddle.

One of her birthday presents while we were in El Salvador was a
half an hour ride at a stable near Raul's family's house.

Most recently, she got to ride a horse on the beach.  Very thrilling for her
as she had never done that before.