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Monday, April 21, 2014

The beaches of Nicaragua

I have written a couple of posts about specific beach trips we've taken (Corn Islands, San Juan del Sur), but we have been so lucky to have visited quite a few more beaches than just those.  Many great beaches are within an 1.5 or 2 hours drive from Granada, so on numerous weekends, we'd rent a car and travel to enjoy the gorgeous, tranquil, undeveloped beaches along Nicaragua's Pacific coast.  Nicaragua has a very long Pacific coastline, thus many different beaches to explore.  Many of them have tremendous waves--I saw what I believe is the largest wave I've ever experienced at Playa Santana--and many of them attract surfers.  While trying to swim in Nicaragua's ocean's (Big Corn Island being the exception), I've grown to have a tremendous respect for the waves and the power of nature.  I think my previous forays into mostly the Atlantic or Caribbean seas gave me a false sense of  ability to swim and stay above the water in the ocean.  The waves and the undercurrents are no joke here, so you have to be very cautious and smart when trying to swim in the ocean.  Nicaragua also has a long Atlantic Coast, but there is minimal infrastructure to get to that area of the country (which is saying a lot, because much of the Pacific coast requires a 4x4), and it is also home to many of Nicaragua's drug crimes. 

I have cherished all of our time here in Nicaragua at this moment in time in part because Nicaragua is still so undeveloped and "unspoiled", and I think this is especially true with the beaches where you can go to many beaches and see only locals fishing or swimming, with not a hotel or restaurant in sight.  It is already changing and will not stay this way for long, so I am thankful for our experience.

Majagual Beach

This is the beach we stayed above when we visited San Juan del Sur.  Lots of other photos in that post:  San Juan del Sur post



La Boquita Beach

La Boquita was developed as a tourist area for people to get out of Managua and go to the beach for the day.  There are a dozen or so restaurants set up on the beach ("restaurant" meaning thatched roof, table and chairs, with hammocks set up), along with a communal area out front with a playground and a couple pulperias (little convenience stores).  Its an overwhelming experience as everyone follows you trying to get you to go to their restaurant, but once you choose, you can order a drink and some seafood and relax.

A fishing boat.

Taking a break from the sun and sand.

Fishing boats.

Don't let the look on her face fool you--she ate
most of the fish.

Horseback riding on the beach.

Fishermen and their family rolling the boat in on large logs. 
Raul passed out in a hammock on the beach.

Huehuete and Casares Beaches

These two beaches are just a few miles from each other.  Hueheute was completely empty of other beach-goers.  There were some houses along the beach, but not much else (including shade).  However, it is gorgeous, and has some great tidal pools, complete with a lobster in one.  Casares is not really a good beach for swimming--its a fisherman's beach and has a fresh seafood market right on the beach.  A little bit dirty, but still really interesting to see the boats and all of the fresh seafood.



Casares fishing boats

Casares fishing boats and nets
 
Penitas Beach

We visited this beach when we went to visit Leon up north.  It is super close--about 20 mins away from Leon, and was really tranquil and nice.  We ate lunch at had some drinks at a hostel on the beach, and I saved a small octopus while on a beach walk.  He was on the sand, desperately trying to get back into the ocean, so I gave him some help.



Santana and Popoyo/Guasacate Beaches

These beaches are fairly close to each other but the places we stayed were a bit different from each other.  Both beaches were gorgeous and fairly empty of people.  We had more shade from a few trees on Santana and the company of a few local kids who were very interested in us and Isabel's kite.  At Popoyo, I had the misfortune of getting hit in the head by a very large wooden screen frame that fell out of our room's window.  Had a large bump and pain for about a week, but still enjoyed a lovely time at the beach.

Santana Beach



Yes, the sun here scares me to death so I try to cover up for
prolonged exposure.

A guy brought this cart down to fill it with sand for nearby construction.

Practicing her surf moves.



Flying a kite.

Popoyo/Guasacate Beach
We saw this woman riding a horse and carrying an umbrella on
our drive to the beach.








El Astillero Beach

This is another fishing village on the beach, about 15 mins from Popoyo/Guasacate.  We didn't see any tourists at all and enjoyed a very authentic fish lunch and beer on the beach.




Kitchen where they fried Raul's fish.


A pig from the village hanging out on the beach.

My fish "al vapor" or steamed with veggies.

Sea turtle eggs that one of the hotels was rescuing from the beach
where the locals take them to eat or to sell.  Its illegal now but
still happens quite a bit.

Extracurricular Activities

I don't know if I've mentioned it before, but there aren't a whole lot of things to do with kids in Granada. That means we have to figure out ways to entertain Isabel M-F starting around 1:15 when she gets home from school and all weekend. There is a park or two, but they are pretty much off limits until late afternoon as the sun is so hot that its impossible to play on any of the equipment without getting burned. We have lots of games, and arts and crafts to do in the house, but that only goes so far. Play dates here and there. We now have renewed our membership to the swimming pool so that definitely is a great option for both having fun and cooling off. We've also managed to find a few different classes to both enrich and entertain Ms. Isabel. There is an art class every Saturday morning from 9-11 that she has been involved with on and off since we arrived. She really loves art and the class is great--they do painting, mosaic, crafts, and even made their own paintbrush out of bamboo and horsehair.

Isabel also loves dancing, and while she could not continue ballet here because there are no classes, she did participate in a traditional Nicaraguan folklore dance for a month or two. She was one of the youngest and the class was 2 hours and intense, so she didn't last too long. But, for the time she was there she really enjoyed it, and especially enjoyed wearing the traditional skirt to practice the dances.
There is a really yummy bakery that opened up a few months ago and they do cookie making classes for kids on Saturday afternoons. That's a win-win--Isabel is entertained for an hour and we get cookies to eat at the end.
And we finally signed her up for swim lessons, twice a week. She loves the water and has no fear so we figured we better actually teach her how to swim. The classes are at the same place we have a pool membership, which is the biggest hotel and pool in Granada. Its an amazing place to swim and for her to have lessons.